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Title : Tis the Season for "Chiles en Nogada"!
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Tis the Season for "Chiles en Nogada"!

My favorite Mexican dish is "chiles en nogada"... a Poblano pepper stuffed with a meat and fruit mixture, covered with a walnut cream sauce, and topped off with a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds.   Green Poblanos, white sauce, red pomegranate seeds... the colors of the Mexican flag in one scrumptious dish. 

There are some restaurants that serve this delicacy all year long, but generally you will find "chiles en nogada" in the months of August and September when pomegranates are in season.  And, because of its patriotic colors, it is the traditional dish for Mexico's Independence Day on September 16th.  You can tell that the season is upon us because even chain restaurants like VIPs and some food stalls in the outdoor markets are advertising "chiles en nogada".

Alejandro had read some reviews which praised the "chiles en nogada" at a restaurant in the Condesa neighborhood called "Fonda Mayora".  So last Saturday we went there to get our fix of Mexico's national dish.  

We arrived in the late afternoon.  The place was packed.  We had to wait a half hour for a table.  Inconvenient, but a good sign that the food is outstanding (we hope).  We were finally seated.  The place is definitely not atmospheric... crowded and very noisy with bland, modern décor.  But it's the food that is most important, right?

As a starter I had Mexican rice in "mole".  The "mole" was superb, as good as what I had for my birthday dinner at Alejandro's family's home.  We're off to a good start.

It seemed that we waited forever for our main course, the "chiles en nogada".  They finally arrived, and they looked beautiful!

How did they taste?  We agreed that they were good, but not the best that we have had.  I guess that we are both snobs when it comes to "chiles en nogada".  We have had "chiles" that were absolutely delectable, so when they are simply good, we are disillusioned.  If I had never tasted this dish before, I would have been very impressed.  But the "nogada" sauce was too thin and did not have enough walnut taste.  The stuffing lacked a depth and complexity of flavor.  

In spite of our disappointment, we went ahead and ordered dessert.  I had a flan made with Mexican "cotija" cheese.  It was very good.

The bill for the two of us came to over 1400 pesos... around $80 US.  I know that is not exorbitant for a fancy restaurant by United States standards.  But it is the most Alejandro and I have ever paid for a meal in Mexico (and we have eaten at some nice places).  For that sort of price I would expect elegant atmosphere, more timely service and food that is more than just good.  

"Fonda Mayora" will not make it to the list of our favorite places.  Maybe, before I leave in September, we will have "chiles en nogada" again... someplace where we know that they will be up to our demanding standards.

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