Title : Cashmere Mending: Patchwork, Sashiko, and a Bit of Play
link : Cashmere Mending: Patchwork, Sashiko, and a Bit of Play
Cashmere Mending: Patchwork, Sashiko, and a Bit of Play
A week or two ago I posted this image on Instagram: a patch I'd sashiko'd over a hole in a cashmere sweater, and I had a request to explain the process here on the blog. (Oh, and I should explain the terminology, as I understand it. Sashiko is the stitching technique, and Bora is the use of it to mend and the overall process, and perhaps also a philosophy, of mending garments, re-using fabric, right down to the last scraps.)
Given that I've only taken one class in sashiko, I'm mostly going to direct you elsewhere for specific instructions and materials, but the gist is pretty straightforward for anyone who can wield scissors, thread, and needle.
Before taking that class with my daughter back in May, I'd seen and been intrigued by many examples of the technique used to mend denim, and I'd studied posts such as this one and this one, which take you step by step through the process (and should you need more inspiration, Holy Pinterest, Batman!
But I hadn't really envisioned being able to mend sweaters -- knit rather than woven garments -- this way until our instructor suggested the possibility. I tried it first with a moth-ravaged cashmere (Bompard, sigh. . . ) cardigan. Nothing to lose, after all, with holes chomped all over, so I just set to with my sashiko needle and thread and I played. . . .
I had an old purple cashmere scarf that had similarly been enjoyed by creepy-crawlies and I used that as a source for patches. There's no intention, with bora mending, to hide the patch itself. This is nothing like "invisible mending," but rather there's an appreciation for what emerges, over time and use, through wear, through life even, through process. . . . That gave me all kinds of permission, right?
I simply cut a patch from the cashmere scarf, of the shape and size I wanted. I didn't worry about hemming, as the scarf had been washed a few times; the edges of the patch won't likely fray. And then I simply threaded my sashiko needle with sashiko thread and had some fun. Truly, for a sweater-mending project, I would use regular embroidery needle and floss, and I'm probably going to try some embroidery with sock yarn (a fine, wool yarn). You might worry about the floss colour running or about whether whichever thread or yarn you use responds differently to washing than the cashmere fabric of your sweater -- But personally I always hand-wash my cashmere and block it carefully to dry, so I'm not concerned. . . And, after all, the sweater was already lost to those dastardly moths anyway. . .
But back to the exterior patch on the grey sweater. This one really hurt, not only because I only bought the sweater (Bompard again) in Paris three or four years ago -- it's practically new! -- but also because I can't blame the moths for the damage -- this hole was ripped by my belt buckle!
I'd accepted the demotion of the pullover from Simple Polished to Relaxed-Sloppy, but now I saw that it might get bumped up at least to Boho-Street, something Lisa's Sturdy Gal might wear gardening or running to pick up milk, but that her Artsy Cousin might throw atop a gorgeous long skirt or velvet palazzo pants for a gallery opening. . . .Yeah, that last might be a stretch, but I can dream, right?
I'm still dreaming, actually. Dreaming about words I might embroider up one side of the neckline's V, perhaps. . . . And will I, or won't I, add another patch (or two) to blanace the odd placement of this one? I've been contemplating for weeks this brilliant idea for upscaling a thrifted sweater, and I have a canvas to work on now, a cashmere canvas or two. Um, thank you moths?
Any of you tried any sashiko or bora mending? Or just the kind of mending our mothers or grandmothers taught us? At least, mine did -- did yours as well? Would you wear something that's visibly mended or would you be uncomfortable with the attention that might draw? (There are class implications here as well, aren't there? It's a luxury for me really, to be able to flaunt a visibly mended garment in a way that my grandmother could never have enjoyed, poverty too constant a threat in the first half of her life. . . . And some of you had mothers and grandmothers who never needed to mend, who could afford to have someone else do that for them.) And, of course, some of us are simply not interested in any needlework, whether practical or creative, nor do we have the time, especially since garments can be so affordably replaced these days. . .
You know the drill: Comments below, or questions, welcome, as always.
Given that I've only taken one class in sashiko, I'm mostly going to direct you elsewhere for specific instructions and materials, but the gist is pretty straightforward for anyone who can wield scissors, thread, and needle.
Before taking that class with my daughter back in May, I'd seen and been intrigued by many examples of the technique used to mend denim, and I'd studied posts such as this one and this one, which take you step by step through the process (and should you need more inspiration, Holy Pinterest, Batman!
But I hadn't really envisioned being able to mend sweaters -- knit rather than woven garments -- this way until our instructor suggested the possibility. I tried it first with a moth-ravaged cashmere (Bompard, sigh. . . ) cardigan. Nothing to lose, after all, with holes chomped all over, so I just set to with my sashiko needle and thread and I played. . . .
I had an old purple cashmere scarf that had similarly been enjoyed by creepy-crawlies and I used that as a source for patches. There's no intention, with bora mending, to hide the patch itself. This is nothing like "invisible mending," but rather there's an appreciation for what emerges, over time and use, through wear, through life even, through process. . . . That gave me all kinds of permission, right?
I simply cut a patch from the cashmere scarf, of the shape and size I wanted. I didn't worry about hemming, as the scarf had been washed a few times; the edges of the patch won't likely fray. And then I simply threaded my sashiko needle with sashiko thread and had some fun. Truly, for a sweater-mending project, I would use regular embroidery needle and floss, and I'm probably going to try some embroidery with sock yarn (a fine, wool yarn). You might worry about the floss colour running or about whether whichever thread or yarn you use responds differently to washing than the cashmere fabric of your sweater -- But personally I always hand-wash my cashmere and block it carefully to dry, so I'm not concerned. . . And, after all, the sweater was already lost to those dastardly moths anyway. . .
But back to the exterior patch on the grey sweater. This one really hurt, not only because I only bought the sweater (Bompard again) in Paris three or four years ago -- it's practically new! -- but also because I can't blame the moths for the damage -- this hole was ripped by my belt buckle!
I'd accepted the demotion of the pullover from Simple Polished to Relaxed-Sloppy, but now I saw that it might get bumped up at least to Boho-Street, something Lisa's Sturdy Gal might wear gardening or running to pick up milk, but that her Artsy Cousin might throw atop a gorgeous long skirt or velvet palazzo pants for a gallery opening. . . .Yeah, that last might be a stretch, but I can dream, right?
I'm still dreaming, actually. Dreaming about words I might embroider up one side of the neckline's V, perhaps. . . . And will I, or won't I, add another patch (or two) to blanace the odd placement of this one? I've been contemplating for weeks this brilliant idea for upscaling a thrifted sweater, and I have a canvas to work on now, a cashmere canvas or two. Um, thank you moths?
Any of you tried any sashiko or bora mending? Or just the kind of mending our mothers or grandmothers taught us? At least, mine did -- did yours as well? Would you wear something that's visibly mended or would you be uncomfortable with the attention that might draw? (There are class implications here as well, aren't there? It's a luxury for me really, to be able to flaunt a visibly mended garment in a way that my grandmother could never have enjoyed, poverty too constant a threat in the first half of her life. . . . And some of you had mothers and grandmothers who never needed to mend, who could afford to have someone else do that for them.) And, of course, some of us are simply not interested in any needlework, whether practical or creative, nor do we have the time, especially since garments can be so affordably replaced these days. . .
You know the drill: Comments below, or questions, welcome, as always.
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